![]() My satisfaction will be when I’m done,it will be better than new. I’m overwhelmed at this point and will need to research more before simpliy rewiring and following the way it was,that’s for sure. I got real lucky my RV did not burn to the ground. It appears to me this electrical system was a disaster waiting to happen. Those two additional fuses would have greatly mitigated damage and condensed it to a closer location of origin. Research also tells me only 1 fuse wasn’t proper in this system. I found some wiring on the wrong hot side of the fuse so it was unprotected. Research tells me, #6 wire isn’t rated to handle the 150 amps that finally blew the the one-150 amp ANL fuse. A direct short and undersized wiring as related to protective fuse sizing is suspect. Cause of this high amp current melt down is only a quess because cable covering was so extensivly melted on 9 seprate lenghts of #6 cable. Sure glad the 150Amp main coach fuse worked.īatteries are now removed(crazy involvement), melted cables removed and damage assessment done with little to none on other wiring noted. ![]() And why did cable to and from the battery bank overload to melting point. Why are the cables to and from it melted. One thing that has me puzzled is this solenoid/ isolator on the firewall. If anyone one has any ideas as to why my all my power cables on both sides of battery bank overloaded, I’m all ears. Only thing I was planning on doing was up grading wire gauage from #6 to #4 to match 150Amp main coach fuse. The system has worked beautifully for 4 years. But now along with just new replacements, I have the task of figuring out why the melt down. I figured sooner or later this monster job would need to be done. battery cradle/basket and for the first time in 4 years ownership seen the batteries. Tomorrow I will be dropping/lowering the 400 lb. Over the years I’ve heard of a few Tiger burning without a know cause. Luckly no flames and my Tiger is undamaged but for 20+ foot of melted #6 power cable. So did the power cable from coach batteries to 150Amp fuse in the coach. All the power cable length from truck battery to solenoid / isolator on firewall and all the way to the 4 AGM coach batteries behind the rear axle melted. I grabbed my chemical fire extinguisher and laid down and looked underneath. I could see in my side mirrors smoke was coming from under the rear of my Tiger RV where 4 AGM batteries live. I tried to keep it short but got caught up in the moment.This morning while driving my battery warning light popped on and I smelled burning wires. So in a way and to keep it short, a battery isolator/relay (or continuous duty solenoid) is a way to keep both starter and auxiliary battery separated but able to charge from the alternator.įrom my research I found there is 2 way to be able to achieve this, either with a continuous duty solenoid or with a diode battery isolator which is kind of more intelligent but also way to big for my taste. Now if you want to charge the auxiliary battery you would need to connect both the starter battery and the auxiliary battery either on the alternator or the starter battery but that could possibly be a problem on the long run because you don't want your auxiliary battery to be directly connected to the starter battery and drain either of both. In real life you have the alternator that connect to the starter battery to charge it. This is the PAC-200 that I've bought for. What I'm trying to achieve is being able to charge the starter battery and an auxiliary battery bank via a continuous duty solenoid, or in other word a battery isolator/relay. Please anyone correct if I'm wrong but I'll do my best.
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